La Bague

Quels sont les objets que je porte toujours avec moi ? Commençons, premièrement, par une déclaration: dans ma mini-révolution analogique, une fois sur deux, je laisse mon smartphone à la maison quand je sors et le remplace par un bloc-notes, un crayon, et un livre. Pour les oublieux qui se bousculent dans l’immédiat: la fonction “appels manqués” était une invention révolutionnaire, et il existe toujours. Pour l’action d’écrire à la main, je me suis attaché aux crayons et mes multiples carnets de notes de toute taille. Chercher la meilleure combinaison de la douceur du plomb par rapport au papier utilisé est toute une science qui m’excite. Si je pouvais, je porterais avec moi aussi ma machine à écrire, une Mercedes des années 30 qui pèse dix kilos. Belle et robuste, qu’il arrive une tempête solaire ou pas, je peux toujours compter sur elle. D’ailleurs, quand avez-vous entendu le son d’une machine à écrire la dernière fois? Jamais? Je vous invite.

Ensuite: porte-clés, obligatoirement. Fabriquée à partir de la peau de poisson (saumon si je ne me trompe pas), la mienne est une pochette en cuir, adorablement organique et plate, style mini-baleine qui avale les clés, permettant d’éviter qu’ils grattent l’écran d’un smart phone, les jours où. Je note, en passant, dans mon carnet: me ralentir. Tanner des peaux de poisson et en fabriquer des tongs.

En finalement: l’excentrique. Ma bague en argent scintille dans mon index. Il m’arrive de la mettre dans ma poche si j’ai envie de faire l’incognito. Un texte “Merci Serigne Touba” y est gravé en wolof, en lettres arabes, sur la surface lisse de la bague en format de cube, décorée style Kaba en miniature. J’ai demandé à mon ami maure le vendeur ce qui se lisait sur la bague. “C’est une prière”, a-t-il répondu catégoriquement, pour dire que c’est une histoire des Mourides, rien à faire avec toi, mais achète-la ! Quand je la porte, les plus enthousiasmés poussent des cris de joie lorsqu’ils réalisent que je connais qui est leur vénéré Cheikh Ahmadou Bamba, aka Serigne Touba. Ma bague fait pleuvoir des compliments dans des situations inattendues, mais je la porte comme une sorte de déclaration silencieuse qui me positionne dans le rang des tropicalisés, reconnaissant d’une appartenance à un pays où la réappropriation culturelle n’a pas encore été inventée.

Afropolis Dakar: A New Nexus

I’m sharing with you a teaser for my upcoming short film in the series on urban space and city dwellers. This film will discuss the status quo of urban planning and the Dakarois civic activism in times in which the public space seems to be growing more and more private with often foreing investments. The teaser was filmed at the beach in Nord Foire in Dakar.

As it happens, the pandemic ruined most of my plans in regard to film making (and I would like to shout, like I am sure you would too: in regard to so many things!) so I have postponed this project for now, in wait of better days and unmasked faces. In practise this means that I will focus more on writing during the summer, so chances are good that it will also affect my future posts on this blog, possibly with random snippets of texts.

Afropolis Dakar: A New Nexus

Afropolis Dakar: A New Nexus. Teaser, 00:59 min.

A One-Minute-City

Fresh meat, open in the evenings”

Have you ever taken part in a community design process in some way? As far as I remember, I did such things in the seventies every time there was a need to embellish the neighbourhood together. The reward for doing this was usually a soft drink of red or yellow colour, someties maybe even some snacks. 

Now with the current pandemic, policy makers have been more actively rethinking of how to make a city more livable. A common tendency seems to be that those smaller neighbourhoods with active communities are something that is worth getting back to. Recently I read about Stockholm and how they would like to take into consideraton “the space outside your front door — and that of your neighbors adjacent and opposite.”* So much so that the immediate surroundings within one-minute range from your home is what counts the most. I’ve seen glimpses of something similar – at times – in the policies by the commune of Saint-Gilles/Sint-Gillis in Brussels, where some streets have been transformed according to teh wishes of the inhabitants. (I will probably come back to this at some point later.)

Stockholm’s own one-minute city plan aims at having streets that have been strategically designed by the immediate local community. In many ways this is how Senegalese cities seem to work, allthough so far you may need to replace the word “designed” with “taken over by silent anarchy”. Within the one-minute radius most of the neighbourhoods here are formed organically and as such they represent the immediate needs of the population in an informal wayr. Carpenters, welders, shoe makers, fruit sellers.. you name it! This is what the article refers to as “open, generative street culture”* and what the policy makers in Sweden are looking for.

Positive signs are in the air as far as community design process in Dakar is concerned. Save Dakar, a civic movement has been actively pursuing the idea of turning the city greener. To add to their campaign, I would like to suggest, for starters, that sidewalks should be claimed back for pedestrians instead of their being occupied by giant 4×4 cars. This problem goes back as far as I can remember… New political imagination about urban planning does not seem to be too high on the agenda of the decision makers but let’s hope that the civil activism that we are now witnessing will be able to change that!

As far as urban planning in Saint-Louis is concerned, it has – surprisingly – manifested in a very active way since March 2019 with sewage works and new paved streets. The work is still ongoing and when things get ready we may have a rainy season without long-lasting giant lakes taking over entire neighborhoods. But what may be missing is a dialogue between civil society and the decision makers. It seems that there is a plan but few people know what it is. If, for instance, you are a small entrepreneur, the street may be dug up right in front of your shop or restaurant etc. and then everything just stagnates for days. 

The good thing with both the one-minute city plan and the Senegalese “organic model” is that essential services are easily accessed from people’s homes. Yet, Senegal may be going to the opposite direction and this one-minute lifestyle will be endangered: in Dakar and some other cities the French supermarket chains are gaining ground and popularity while markets and small butiks suffer. The supermarkets don’t beat small sellers only with prices and wider range of imported goods but also with this certain halo of luxury about going to a supermarket, that they have been able to generate. You can park your car right next to a Casino or an Auchan, and as we know, whoever that has a beautiful car will have whatever excuse there is to show it to the rest of the world.

*Make Way for the ‘One-Minute City’ article by Bloomberg (link copied 23 January 2021)

Afropolis 2020 Saint-Louis

Afropolis 2020 Saint-Louis

What makes you remember a street? Is there an area in town to which you return often? Why? We all know how specific areas within any given city have their own feel and pace, depending on the time of the day. I was always a walker and in whatever town I lived, I always developed a fast understanding of my own favorite neighborhoods. In the case of Saint-Louis, it’s the northern part of the island, or the sandy stretch of land further north by the Mauritanian border in Goxum Bacc and Sal Sal. 

During the Covid-19 pandemic I started my days by walking around the island very early in the morning, and the first thing I do is check the surface of the river as some sort of a fortune teller or weather forecast. I would also choose my first walk or bicycle route of the day always by the river even in the non-pandemic times. 

With Covid-19 the pace of life has changed and even more so with the Ramadan in full swing. This change will – I hope – manifest also in my video installations for Afropolis. I have chatted with friends and listened to them talk about their hometown and it has been very interesting to hear what they like about this town and how they would change it if they could. I chose to shoot on the streets with a mini DV camcorder on purpose as I have come to realize that digital does not always convey so well what I am hoping to show. I like this extra-economical boundary of 60 minute-cassettes because that puts me in a completely different mood with planning my work. Additionally, it has been my interviewees who gave me ideas for locations to shoot.  

Afropolis 2020 Saint-LouisA Takkusaan Production (2020), Duration: 45:14 (In French & Wolof)

Point E

Point E

Bi ma njëkkee ñëw Dakar lu jege ñaar fukki at ci Plateau laa daloon ci goxu jaaykat yi ci “centre-ville”. Waaye, bi ma tambalee dal ci Yoff walla Ngor ci ben néég walla studio, ñaari gox yépp nekk ci bët gannaaru dëkk bi, te bi ma miinee koñ yooyu ci wetu géég gi, laa leen def sama dëkkuwaay. Boo tammee dem ci yenn gox yi nga xamantane dangay lëkkëlook waa foofu te mbirum tourisme yobbuwula, mbir yi dañuy yomb lool ci yow. Booy faraldi dem ci benn bërëb ay yooni yoon, dangay mel ni ku fa bokk ba romb sax waa foofu. Ku mësa nekk Senegal ku nekk war na xam li may wax foofu. Kon, fan yii dama xalaat ne wut beneen dëkkuwaay dina wara nekk lu neex. Bu ma leen laajoon lan ngeen may digal ci ban koñ laa wara dëkk? 

Am na yenn gox ci Dakar yu ma neex lool, su fekkee sax xamuma noonu bërëb yooyu. Xëyna bërëb yooyu dafay mel ni lu nekk ci man te damay am lu may yëg buma nekkee ci bërëb yu ni mel. Xam naa ne dafay niirook lu doy waar, waaye bi ma nekkee xale dama féntal sama bopp am po taxoon ma mënoona jàpp ci sama xel ay mbir yu bare ci ay gox, koñ, tali, garab, kër ak lépp lu taxaw ca bërëb ba ma nekk. Mësuma bayyi jikko jooju te léégi bumay fatteliku Dakar, Point E mooy njëkka ñêw ci sama xel ni dëkku taax, ak ay taleem yu bari yëngu yëngu, garabam yu am ker yi, dugg génn ya ca daara ju kawe ja. Point E dafa boole gox bu bare yëngu ak ay bërëbam yu amul benn coow yi te bi ma njëkkee teg samay tànk ci taleem yi am na ay at léégi, dafa meloon ni dama fa xam ba pare. Te mënuma wax lu waral loolu. Dafa meloon ni dama xam gox bi ba noppi te xame ko dafa yomboon lool ci man. Te am na piscine olympikam bi nga xamantane dafa may xëcc ma fay dem di fééy. Bi nga xamee ne léégi dama ne dama bëgga bokk ci waa dëkk bi, gis naa ne fii laay nekk.

Ci atum 1946 «Plan Directeur d’urbanisme» dafa tëraloon ay sart ngir nit ñi ci Point E topp ay yoon yuy yemale tabax yi ngir nekkin yu neex ci gox bi. Fan yii li am ci gox boobu jeggi na dayo ndaxte ñungi gis ay tabax yu kawe di juddu fépp ci biir gox bi. Foofu dafa soppeeku ci ni mu meloon ci dëkkuwaay gu neexa nekk ak ay tabax yu kawe.

Ba léégi mënuma xam lu waral ñuy woowe Point E noonu. Su fekkee am na ku nu mëna xamal lan la “E” bi di tekki, nungi lay déglu! Dakar du la mësa naqari, rawatina turi kóminam yi ak arondismà am yi. Gueule Tapée itam tur bu am solo – gox bu rafet itam – ak Patte d’oie koñ yu ma gëna neex lañu. Buñu fatte SICAP itam, SICAP dafa lëkkëloo ak lu rafet lu mel ni: Baobab, Amitié, Keur Gorgui… Sama kumpa du jeex ci bëgga xam lu waral ab bërëb ñu tudde ko tur wi mu yore. Dinaa ñëwaat lu gëna leer ci loolu ci beneen “post” bu bees. 

Ab laaj: lan mooy sa bërëb walla koñ bu la gëna neex ci Dakar? Ndax am nga fenn ci dëkk bi foo sopp walla foo bëgga dëkk, te su amee, mën nga nu wax lutax? Maangi leen di gërëm bu baax ci seen ndimbal.