Tata 36

Keroog dama dugg ci benn bis Tata bu 36 bi lay jële terminis Ngor yobbu la Guediawaye. Tata yu ndaw yii dañuy gaawa fees ak nit waaye wii yoon amoon naa palaas kon toogoon naa. Sopp naa jël ‘taranspoor pibilik’ ci biir dëkki taax yi ndaxte di leen faraldi jël dafay tax nga xam bu baax bërëb yi ci dëkk bi, dinga mëna toog ci booru palanteer bi yoon wi yépp. Jël bis ci dëkki Senegal yépp lu ci ëpp, lu rëy la ndaxte bis bi dafay taxaw lu bari te dangay faraldi di jokkonteek nit ñi ci biir bis bi. Seneglais yi dañu may jaaxal lool ndaxte lu bis bi fees dinañu fexe ba xajalante ngir ñeneen ñi mëna am palaas, itam ni ñuy jallale xaalis yi ngir jënd tike ci rësëvëër bi toog ci ginnaaw bis bi te mu naqare gis su bis bi feese dell. 

Wute-wute dem beek dikk bi ci Dakar dafay wone ni koom-koom bu ñu teg ci yoon ak koom-koom bu jaxasoo di liggééyandoo te muy dox. Ni dëkki Afrik yu bari, Dakar am na ay goxam yoo xamantane dañu dajale, ci ay bërëb yu ñu aar, ñi am alal te ci yeneen bërëb yu nekk boo génnee Dakar tuuti mu am ñi nééw doole ñu dajaloo foofu ak ñi dëkk ci gox yi nekk ci diggante bi te nga xamantane seeni tali yi baaxuñu. Wante nit ñi dañuy faraldi di demak dikk fu leen neex léppaangi nekk ci naka lañu mëna faye rekk ndaxte ku nekk foo bëgga dem dinga fa dem muy ci gox yu rafet yi walla biir dëkk ba walla ci ‘banlieue’ ba walla feneen.

Damay faraldi jël bis tata ci diggante Yoff ak Ngor su fekkee du ci waxtu yu xat yi su dul loolu damay jël taxi walla kalandó. Bis Tata yi ak Dakar Dem Dikk yi dañuy dem fépp ci biir dëkk bi. Dakar Dem Dikk am na itam ay bis yuy génn Dakar di dem ci yeneen gox yi ci Senegal. Ci biir Dakar am nañu itam li nuy tudde kaar rapid ay ay melokaanam yu bari kulëër yi, itam am na njaga njaay yi di ay kaar yu soppi def leen ay bis te ñuy faraldi am ab xale bu góór taxaw ci buntu gannaaw bi di wax fi ñuy jëm tey nangu paasu nit ñi. Njaga Njaay yi dañu lay yobbu fépp foo bëgga dem ni itam sept-place yi nekk ci garaas yi te ñuy daw dëkk ak dëkk ci biir rééw mi. 

Am na itam ay taksi yu mboq yu dul jeex ci biir Dakar. Dañu lay piip su ñu la gisee ci booru tali bi ngir jël la. Ma yëgal leen : boo yakkamtee, boo moytuwul rekk taksi itam dinañu la tardeel. Dal na ma ay yooni yoon ma jël taksi mu dem ba ci digg yoon wi mu paan foofu balaa sax ma doon agg fa ma doon jëm, kon soo leen mënee fexe leen ba tann oto bu baax te rafet ngir moytu yooyu jafe-jafe. Yenn saay taksi bi ngay jël mën na nekk sax amul kayitu dawal ñu tudde ko ‘permis’ te lu ci ëpp dawalkat bi dafa lay jaaraale ci yoon yi doy waar ndaxte dafay moyto alkaati yi. Ci lu gëna rafet : Benn bés dama fattewoon sama ‘smartphone’ ci benn taksi, bi ma wootee ay yooni yoon ci la benn kiliyan ci biir taksi bi tontu woote bi te ginnaaw loolu nee na ma buma jaaxle, ndaxte dawalkatu taksi bi dina ma delloo sama telefon ci nu,u gëna gaawe, te loolu la def ! 

Am na yeneen fasoŋu taksi yi di xëccoo ak taksi yu mboq yi te ñu tudde leen kalando ndaxte amuñu sañ-sañ ngir nekk taksi. Waaye kalando yi dañoo am njëriñ lool ci yenn gox yi ci dëkk bi ndaxte dañoo yomb lool te dañuy dugg fi nga xam ne bis yi duñu fa dem. Dañu am njëriñ, yomb te gaaw. Yooyo oto ay nit ñoo leen moom di leen jëfandikoo di yobbu nit ñi jóge bërëb bii dem bërëb bee. Ci waxtu xëy ak wacc danga wara gaaw ngir mëna toog rawatina boo dee tubaab: dawalkatu kalandóo yooyu duñuy faraldi taxaw ngir jël tubaab su fekkee jéémooleena taxawal.

Bi ñu doon defar tali yu mag yi ci Dakar ñu leen di woowe otorut, nit ñi dañu doon def ñetti waxtu diggante Yoff ak Diamaguene. Nit ñi tammoon nañu yaggaay boobu bo doon dem ci ab bërëb – Ban meneen pexe lañu amoon? Léégi ak otorut yu bees yii ak ay yuquteek bis yi ak jëmukaay yi mbir yi tane nañu bu baaxa baax. Su fekkee sax dem beek dikk bi dafa metti ba léégi ci waxtu xëy ak wacc ndax ni nit ñi yoqoo ci dëkk bi rawatina oto partikiliye yi bari ba dee ci tali Dakar yi, mettiil dem beek dikk bi te posonal jawu ji. Jambaar dëgg mooy mëna dem aka dikk ci biir dëkk bi! Bi ma jóge Ngor doon dem Guediawaye def naa ko lu jege ñaari waxtu ab ajjuma ci suba sis u fekkee sax toogoon naa ci palanteer bi te doon xool ba nga xamantane ni yëguma waxtu wi romb. Xëy na sax def naa ko lu gëna gàtt li ma foogoon.

Am na lenn lu wara am ci Dakar mooy Tram. Dina ma doon neex ma gis Dakar am ay Tram di dem ci ñeenti boor yépp maanaam Bëj saalum jëm Bëj gannaar ak Sowu jëm Pénku. Waaye lii dafay laaj mu am nguur gu mëna toppatoo ak defar gu dëgër te yagg ak xaalis.

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Ak tekstë bu neex ci ay taksi ci Lagos ak Yaoundé, maangi leen digal ngeen kontine di liir (ci Angalé) “Taxi Drivers who Drive Us Nowhere” by Howard M-B Maximus, written for Bakwa 09: Taxi Drivers who Drive Us Nowhere and other Travel Stories.

Ngor Village

This is not only about sheep living right next to me and whom I could literally feed from my living room, but also about how crammed Ngor has become in the past 10 years. The fishermen’s village was always densely built with sandy narrow alley ways. And it still has its charm: have a walk here and you are truly in another world as there are no cars, only humans and animals. As families are not getting any smaller, this village has been and is growing upwards. Yes, you could call this a village but according to the Senegalese standards it’s rather urban: just five minutes’ walk away from Route de Ngor, a very busy artery road that connects Ngor to the Corniche in the south and west and Yoff in the east. The sheep in the photograph were on the 2nd floor of the building right next to mine. These days you can consider yourself lucky if you see from your window anything else than the wall of the neighboring house, or another window. As far as this particular building is concerned, some ten years back I could still see the ocean from the rooftop . 

“Ngor garage” in the eastern part of the village still has a little bit more space, but for how long?

Going deep also in 2020

Deep_social media
© jarmo pikkujämsä

Those of you who are going to be in Dakar and attend the Dak’Art Biennale, please mark your calendars for my exhibition Deep in Ngor. The exhibition takes place in Le Spot de Ngor, a very cozy venue where you can also have coffee and a healthy lunch, or find the latest gear for swimming and surfing. It is located in Ngor-Plage, a one-minute-walk from the beach so why not have a half-day off from the traffic jams of the city and dip yourself in the ocean as well?

Deep. Underwater photography, mixed media – Dak’Art Biennale OFF. May 28 – June 14, 2020.